Your First 5 Mini-Z Upgrades (And What Order to Do Them)

Every Mini-Z owner ends up at the same place eventually. The stock car is genuinely fun — that’s not the issue — but you start to notice things. The steering feels a little loose. The car doesn’t hold a line the way it should. You wonder if it’s you, or the car.

It’s mostly the car. And it’s an easy fix.

Here are the first five mods, ranked by how much they’ll change your driving experience per dollar spent.

1. Ball Bearings (Do This First)

The single most impactful upgrade you can make to any Mini-Z is replacing the plastic bushings with ball bearings. Stock Mini-Zs use injection-molded plastic bushings at the wheels and drivetrain. They create rolling resistance, they wear quickly, and they introduce slop.

Ball bearings eliminate most of that. You’ll feel it immediately — the car rolls freer, spins up faster, and holds speed through corners. This is the one mod that belongs on every single Mini-Z before anything else.

What to buy: A full bearing set (typically 8-10 bearings depending on platform). For the MR-03 and MA-020, look for 850 and 1050 size bearings. PN Racing and Atomic both make reliable options.

2. Tire Compound

Stock tires are fine for carpet, but they’re a compromise. Once you know what surface you’re primarily running on, matching your compound makes a real difference in grip and consistency.

For RCP track (the foam tile most indoor tracks use), you want a softer compound. For smooth carpet, medium works well. For hardwood or linoleum, you’ll want something harder with more lateral bite.

What to buy: Start with a mid-range compound from Kyosho or PN Racing. You don’t need to go deep on this yet — just get off the stock tires.

3. T-Plate Upgrade

The T-plate is the main chassis flex point on rear-wheel-drive Mini-Z platforms. It controls rear traction under acceleration and how the car settles through corners. Stock T-plates are plastic with limited tuning options.

Upgrading to a carbon fiber or aluminum T-plate gives you more consistent behavior and opens up the tuning range. Stiffer plates work better on high-grip surfaces; softer plates help on low-grip or bumpy surfaces.

What to buy: Carbon T-plates from PN Racing or Yeah Racing. Start with a medium flex rating.

4. Motor Pinion / Gear Ratio

This one is cheap and often overlooked. The stock gear ratio might not be optimized for your track or driving style. Changing the pinion gear changes your final drive ratio — more teeth means faster top speed, fewer teeth means more torque and acceleration.

Most indoor tracks favor a slightly taller gear (more teeth) because the straightaways are short and you want to be pulling hard out of corners. Experiment with 1-2 teeth in each direction from stock.

What to buy: A pinion gear set (multiple tooth counts). They’re cheap — under $5 each.

5. Gyro

If you’re running the MR-03 or another rear-wheel-drive platform and struggling with snap oversteer, a gyro is transformative. It corrects rear-end slides by feeding counter-steer faster than any human can react.

This isn’t cheating — it’s electronics doing what physics demands. At 1/28 scale, RWD cars can behave very twitchy. A gyro makes the car actually drivable at speed.

What to buy: Atomic, Reflex Racing, or Sanwa options are all solid. Make sure it’s compatible with your ESC/receiver setup.

Those five mods — bearings, tires, T-plate, gearing, gyro — will take you from a stock Mini-Z to something that genuinely rewards good driving. Each one builds on the last. Do them in order and you’ll feel each improvement clearly.